{"id":100976,"date":"2022-06-09T19:47:39","date_gmt":"2022-06-10T00:47:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/?p=100976"},"modified":"2022-06-09T19:47:39","modified_gmt":"2022-06-10T00:47:39","slug":"4-fashion-psychology-secrets-to-know","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/4-fashion-psychology-secrets-to-know\/","title":{"rendered":"4 fashion psychology secrets to know"},"content":{"rendered":"

By Yuliya Klochan<\/strong>
\nMedill Reports<\/em><\/p>\n

The fashion industry globally reached $1.9 trillion in retail sales of clothing and footwear in 2019, according to <\/span>Statista<\/span><\/a>, with the U.S. emerging as the <\/span>largest apparel market<\/span><\/a>. And what Americans wear has major consequences on both their physical and mental well-being.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIf you felt good in your dress, and you felt good about yourself, and that inner confidence was on fire \u2014 it’s that inner light that shines through my whole design process,\u201d said Don O\u2019Neill, a designer of evening wear and custom bridal apparel who\u2019s dressed celebrities such as Oprah Winfrey, Meghan Markle and Carrie Underwood. \u201cWhen you walked into a room in one of my dresses, I wanted people to say, \u2018You look great,\u2019 instead of, \u2018That dress was awesome.\u2019 It was about you rather than the dress.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Here are four fashion psychology ideas to understand as the global apparel and footwear market rises toward a projected $3.3 trillion annually by 2030, according to <\/span>Statista<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Secret #1: Can\u2019t stop buying Prada? The psychology of brand addiction.<\/b><\/p>\n

\"fast
Brand addiction feels different for luxury versus fast fashion brands. Those following fast fashion are fueled by the desire to stay up to date and \u201ckeep up with the buzz,\u201d marketing and fashion expert Mona Mrad says. (Yuliya Klochan\/MEDILL)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cOne of the participants, he said, \u2018Apple is like your wife. Can you divorce your wife?\u2019\u201d recalled Mona Mrad, assistant professor of marketing at the American University of Sharjah.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Mrad and her colleagues led a series of focus groups to explore the concept of brand addiction (BA), and she has many stories to tell, some published in a subsequent <\/span>study<\/span><\/a> in 2018 in <\/span>Journal of Business Research<\/span><\/i>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

One woman enrolled in the university for a master\u2019s degree so she could get a better-paying job to buy Chanel. Another participant\u2019s brother convinced everyone around him to buy Hugo Boss. And one man recalled how his friend, having run out of clothing in the middle of a\u00a0 trip to Rome, convinced his group of friends to search for a Ralph Lauren shop with him, since he was unprepared to wear any other brand.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

BA is defined as \u201ca psychological state that entails an emotional attachment to a particular brand, driven by compulsive urges that generally provide pleasure,\u201d according to a research <\/span>paper<\/span><\/a> published by Mrad in <\/span>Qualitative Market Research <\/span><\/i>in 2018.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

BA can activate the same brain area linked to other addictive behaviors such as alcoholism, but it\u2019s not the same as compulsive buying, although the two conditions can coexist. In fact, the presence of BA \u2014 which gives people feelings of gratification from buying their favorite brand\u2019s products \u2014 can weaken the negative effects of compulsive buying, according to a 2020 <\/span>study<\/span><\/a> co-authored by Mrad and published in <\/span>Journal of Business Research<\/span><\/i>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

One brand addict described her experience of buying a coat as, \u201c\u2018This brand shouts Emily,\u2019\u201d Mrad recalled. \u201cYou feel that it is you, it’s who you are. And this is the reason why you become addicted to this brand \u2014 because it’s representing you. It’s giving you this kind of branding, this kind of positioning of who you are.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Secret #2: What people wear influences how they think and feel\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n

\"mannequins
In a work-from-home environment, more people are opting out of matching tops and bottoms in favor of a \u201cZoom mullet.\u201d (Yuliya Klochan\/MEDILL)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The \u201cZoom mullet,\u201d according to <\/span>Urban Dictionary<\/span><\/a>, is \u201cbusiness on top, pajama pants on the bottom.\u201d Many have adopted this attire during the remote work era, but what are the psychological consequences?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

A January 2022 <\/span>study<\/span><\/a>, published in <\/span>Academy of Management Discoveries<\/span><\/i>, showed wearing full-on home attire, top and bottom, increased workers\u2019 authenticity and engagement, while neither full work attire nor the \u201cZoom mullet\u201d had these positive effects.<\/span><\/p>\n

This experiment is one of many exploring the concept of \u201cenclothed cognition,\u201d coined in 2012 to describe how \u201cwhat we wear can influence how we think, feel, and act.\u201d In that first 2012 <\/span>study<\/span><\/a>, published in <\/span>Journal of Experimental Social Psychology<\/span><\/i>, researchers observed that wearing a doctor\u2019s lab coat increased people\u2019s attention. They did not observe this improvement when participants were given the same garment, but were told it was a painter\u2019s coat.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

A multi-university research team failed to replicate the lab coat study with a larger sample in a 2019 <\/span>experiment<\/span><\/a>, but, given that other studies on enclothed cognition exist, the 2019 experiment did not debunk the theory entirely.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

More recent experiments, besides the one on the Zoom mullet, reveal new ways what people wear influences their behavior. In a 2022 <\/span>paper<\/span><\/a>, published in <\/span>Trends in Psychology<\/span><\/i>, wearing anti-COVID-19 face masks made people more willing to be spontaneous, at least in imagined social interactions. In a 2019 <\/span>study<\/span><\/a>, published in <\/span>Psychological Reports<\/span><\/i>, researchers demonstrated that participants wearing police uniforms were more likely to shoot unarmed targets in a first-person video game simulation.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Secret #3: Painful heels and restrictive skirts\u2014the role of gender in fashion choices<\/b><\/p>\n

\"shelf
Studies<\/a> have shown wearing heels can increase perceived attractiveness, but also the risk of chronic muscle and skeletal problems. (Yuliya Klochan\/MEDILL)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cMy mom always said, \u2018Vanity knows no pain,\u2019\u201d recalled Kathlin Argiro, an evening wear designer and instructor at Fashion Institute of Technology. \u201cIt\u2019s a very old saying, but I wouldn’t say I prescribe to that.\u201d Argiro has sold her collection to Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale\u2019s.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIf you don’t feel comfortable and confident in what you’re wearing, you’re not going to have fun, and it’s going to show,\u201d Argiro said. But not every designer agrees, and people continue to wear clothing that can be uncomfortable and even take a physical toll.<\/span><\/p>\n

The burden falls mostly on women, who are significantly more likely to wear clothes or shoes that fall under one or more of the painful, self-distracting or restricting categories. These results, collected prior to the pandemic, were published in a 2021 research <\/span>paper<\/span><\/a> in <\/span>Sex Roles<\/span><\/i>. The most stark contrasts were the gender differences in shoe comfort: Women were up to 10 times more likely to wear painful footwear. Up to 55% of women, but only up to 12% of men, said they\u2019d worn clothing that left \u201cred marks or welts\u201d on their bodies.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Secret #4: How the COVID-19 pandemic affected fashion choices<\/b><\/p>\n

\"mannequins
Retail stores have a mean inventory turnover ratio of almost 11, according to Investopedia<\/a>. This means that stores, on average, replenish their whole stock more than 10 times a year due to high demand. (Yuliya Klochan\/MEDILL)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cWhat (the pandemic) has done is to realign a lot of values that people have and what they’re looking to get out of apparel and other fashion related items,\u201d said Michael Solomon, professor of marketing at Saint Joseph\u2019s University. \u201cProbably the biggest change is the consciousness about sustainability.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Solomon said the lockdown gave people time to reflect on their values, which led to rethinking fast fashion and purchasing from companies that have not expressed social responsibility.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

O\u2019Neill shared a similar sentiment: \u201cI think there’s been a global awareness of where your clothing comes from,\u201d he said. Designers graduating from fashion school know the origin of their products and the manufacturing process, striving to make it ethical and the materials renewable.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The customers are catching up too. \u201cI feel like the pandemic shone a huge light on sustainability and environmental fashion, responsible sourcing and responsible fashion,\u201d O\u2019Neill said. Customers today also demand transparency.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt’s not that we stopped buying,\u201d Mrad said. \u201cWe will keep buying, but we will buy differently.\u201d The trend for consumers is to purchase products that are intended more for comfort than showing off. Hard items \u2014 those fashion pieces, like Rolex watches and luxury handbags, that last longer \u2014 are outselling soft items, as people are thinking of their new products more as investments. \u201cI would rather buy a handbag that is going to have value even after a few years, instead of buying an outfit that I don’t know whether I will wear it or not. And then after one year, it will not be trending anymore,\u201d Mrad said.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Argiro is not planning her next collection yet, but she has some ideas on what she could change post-lockdown: \u201cI\u2019d probably do a combination of real glamorous type of evening wear, but then also have some things that were a little bit more of athleisure.\u201d In the end, \u201cpeople would want a little bit of fantasy\u201d after being in sweatpants for so long.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yuliya Klochan is a health, environment and science graduate student at Medill. You can follow her on Twitter at\u00a0@YuliyaKlochan<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

By Yuliya Klochan Medill Reports The fashion industry globally reached $1.9 trillion in retail sales of clothing and footwear in 2019, according to Statista, with the U.S. emerging as the largest apparel market. And what Americans wear has major consequences on both their physical and mental well-being.\u00a0 \u201cIf you felt good in your dress, and […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":793,"featured_media":100977,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[194,29,5282],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-100976","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arts-culture","category-health-and-science","category-spring-2022"],"yoast_head":"\n4 fashion psychology secrets to know - Medill Reports Chicago<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/4-fashion-psychology-secrets-to-know\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"4 fashion psychology secrets to know - Medill Reports Chicago\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Yuliya Klochan Medill Reports The fashion industry globally reached $1.9 trillion in retail sales of clothing and footwear in 2019, according to Statista, with the U.S. emerging as the largest apparel market. 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