{"id":102772,"date":"2023-04-24T15:46:45","date_gmt":"2023-04-24T20:46:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/?p=102772"},"modified":"2023-04-24T15:46:45","modified_gmt":"2023-04-24T20:46:45","slug":"chef-rodolfo-cuadros-of-amaru-bloom-on-stirring-up-environmentally-sound-latin-cuisine-launching-plant-based-taqueria","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/chef-rodolfo-cuadros-of-amaru-bloom-on-stirring-up-environmentally-sound-latin-cuisine-launching-plant-based-taqueria\/","title":{"rendered":"Chef Rodolfo Cuadros of Amaru, Bloom on stirring up \u2018environmentally sound\u2019 Latin cuisine, launching plant-based taqueria"},"content":{"rendered":"

By Julia Lowe<\/strong>
\nMedill Reports<\/em><\/p>\n

Chef Rodolfo Cuadros, who launched Don Bucio\u2019s Taqueria (2763 N. Milwaukee Ave.) on Feb. 25, once nearly accepted an executive chef position in India.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cAround 2016, the political climate was rough,\u201d Cuadros said. \u201cWe were questioning, because of the rhetoric around that time, whether this was a place to be brown. We always saw Chicago as our bubble, but you can only protect your family so much.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Instead, in August 2019, Cuadros, 39, stayed and opened Amaru, a love letter to Latin American pride and hospitality. Only eight months later, the restaurant closed its doors because of COVID-19. Still, less than a week later, Amaru moved to take-out service \u2014 and Cuadros opened Bloom Plant Based Kitchen in 2021, Lil Amaru in Time Out Market in 2022 and Don Bucio\u2019s Taqueria in 2023.<\/span><\/p>\n

The executive chef-owner\u2019s culinary roots are Colombian. The youngest of four brothers, Cuadros was born in New York but at age 2 moved with his family to Cali, Colombia. He grew up on a farm surrounded by cousins, pigs and women cooking all sorts of traditional cuisine: lechon asado, rellena, morcilla and chorizo.<\/span><\/p>\n

But when he returned to New York at 13, he began working in kitchens as a dishwasher, which birthed his \u201clove\/hate\/love\u201d relationship with food. A hot-tempered grill cook didn\u2019t show up for work one day, and Cuadros\u2019 middle-school English earned him a quick promotion to his first cooking position. \u201cIt was a marriage of convenience. I could make a buck or two more an hour, and they could communicate with me and try to teach me,\u201d Cuadros said. \u201cBut it was also not easy for me at that age.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

At 17, while still in high school, Cuadros had his first son and needed a career to support his new family. He promptly enrolled as a culinary arts student at Johnson & Wales University in Miami, where he befriended chef Douglas Rodriguez \u2014 <\/span>known as the \u201cgodfather of Nuevo Latino cooking.\u201d<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

\u201cI had never worked with Latin American food,\u201d Cuadros said. As a chef at Rodriguez\u2019s restaurant OLA (Of Latin America), he learned his culture\u2019s cuisine could be upscale \u2014 and he was sold on becoming a chef.<\/span><\/p>\n

After about two and a half years at OLA, Cuadros left Miami for Europe. Rodriguez connected him with a job at Deseo (meaning \u201cwish\u201d) in London, where he revamped the entire menu as a 19-year-old. Then, his culinary exploration of Europe began \u2014 and although he spent stints of several months each in London, France and Spain, he kept finding Latin American food. \u201cThat\u2019s where I realized that Latin American food is much more special than I had given it credit for,\u201d Cuadros said.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

After three years traveling Europe, Cuadros returned to Miami to work for Rodriguez again as an executive chef, which kick-started his global culinary tour: Thailand, Cambodia, Peru, Ecuador, New York (under chefs Richard Sandoval and David Burke) and back to Miami again, where he met his wife. The two moved to Chicago, where Cuadros, in 2013, became executive chef at Carnivale in the West Loop. For the next six years, he shaped the menu with his personal touch \u2014 and fell in love with Chicago. \u201cIt was a city where people supported local and small businesses,\u201d Cuadros said.<\/span><\/p>\n

But the second half of his tenure at Carnivale took place during the Trump administration, when the country was awash with anti-immigrant, anti-Hispanic rhetoric, and he and his family considered leaving the United States. After turning down a handful of international offers, Cuadros and his family abandoned their plan of becoming expats and decided to open a restaurant. And in 2019, Amaru was born, Cuadros\u2019 way of telling the country: \u201cWe\u2019re not going anywhere.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Along with its menu of plantains, oxtail, pumpkin, chimichurri, pork and a host of other Caribbean and South and Central American ingredients, Amaru boasts an extensive rum list, organized by country. Shoving aside the image of Latin American cooking as \u201cbig portions and a lot of fried stuff,\u201d Cuadros said, he tried to honor the soul of the cuisine but present it with his own Nuevo Latino twist.<\/span><\/p>\n

When the pandemic forced Amaru to shut down its dining room, Cuadros pivoted to offering to-go service in the form of Bloom Vegetarian Kitchen, a meatless ghost kitchen that operated out of Amaru\u2019s space. A year later, he rebranded Bloom into a full restaurant, and Bloom Plant Based Kitchen opened its own dining room at 1559 N. Milwaukee Ave., with a uniquely green vision.<\/span><\/p>\n

Cuadros has had an interest in plant-based cooking for 12 years because of his wife and her family, but he could never invite them to eat at his previous restaurants because of the lack of vegetarian menu options. He set out to achieve that at Bloom.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI go out of my way to do a lot of things that are more environmentally sound. I don’t like to use the word sustainable so much because it\u2019s kind of an illusion,\u201d Cuadros said. \u201cBut I definitely think we are the most sustainable restaurant in the Midwest.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

On top of an entirely plant-based menu, Bloom follows other \u201cenvironmentally sound\u201d initiatives. Cuadros uses grown-in-house microgreens and even installed <\/span>a biodigester called ORCA<\/span><\/a> that composts any and all food scraps. He also created a gluten-free menu, a commitment that he calls a way of showing plant-based eating is much more diverse than seitan, a gluten-based meat substitute that he clarifies is \u201cnot technically cooking vegetables. You\u2019re eating bread.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Now, with his third concept in Chicago, Cuadros is integrating his two culinary missions of showcasing Latin American cuisine and opening minds to plant-based eating in Don Bucio\u2019s Taqueria, or DBT. DBT is the brainchild of Cuadros and his former Carnivale sous chef, Gustavo Ocampo. After helping Cuadros open Bloom, Ocampo traveled the country in an RV searching for the best vegan taco. A taco in Oakland, California, was the winner, and Ocampo brought the inspiration back to Chicago to expand Bloom\u2019s two taco recipes into a full standalone vegan Mexican menu.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m excited for all the Hispanic vegans that could never eat their mom\u2019s food again \u2014 I\u2019m gonna try to get them back,\u201d Ocampo said.<\/span><\/p>\n

Cuadros and Ocampo are calling DBT \u201ca Mexican restaurant that just happens to serve vegetables.\u201d This latest venture is another jewel in Cuadros\u2019 crown of sustainable Latin American cuisine.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt took everyone 10 years to realize what he\u2019s been doing forever,\u201d Ocampo said. \u201cFinally, people are starting to take notice.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Julia Lowe is a magazine graduate student at Medill. You can follow her on Twitter at <\/span><\/i>@juliamlowe<\/span><\/i><\/a>.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

By Julia Lowe Medill Reports Chef Rodolfo Cuadros, who launched Don Bucio\u2019s Taqueria (2763 N. Milwaukee Ave.) on Feb. 25, once nearly accepted an executive chef position in India. \u201cAround 2016, the political climate was rough,\u201d Cuadros said. \u201cWe were questioning, because of the rhetoric around that time, whether this was a place to be […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":906,"featured_media":102773,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[194,27,28,5377],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-102772","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arts-culture","category-business","category-general-interest","category-spring-2023"],"yoast_head":"\nChef Rodolfo Cuadros of Amaru, Bloom on stirring up \u2018environmentally sound\u2019 Latin cuisine, launching plant-based taqueria - Medill Reports Chicago<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/chef-rodolfo-cuadros-of-amaru-bloom-on-stirring-up-environmentally-sound-latin-cuisine-launching-plant-based-taqueria\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Chef Rodolfo Cuadros of Amaru, Bloom on stirring up \u2018environmentally sound\u2019 Latin cuisine, launching plant-based taqueria - Medill Reports Chicago\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Julia Lowe Medill Reports Chef Rodolfo Cuadros, who launched Don Bucio\u2019s Taqueria (2763 N. 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