{"id":104406,"date":"2024-05-20T19:08:52","date_gmt":"2024-05-21T00:08:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/?p=104406"},"modified":"2024-05-20T19:36:01","modified_gmt":"2024-05-21T00:36:01","slug":"the-fashion-industry-primes-us-to-reinvent-ourselves-every-season-dont-fall-for-it","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/the-fashion-industry-primes-us-to-reinvent-ourselves-every-season-dont-fall-for-it\/","title":{"rendered":"The fashion industry primes us to reinvent ourselves every season. Don\u2019t fall for it."},"content":{"rendered":"

By Julia Gordon<\/strong><\/p>\n

Medill Reports <\/em><\/p>\n

CHICAGO \u2014 Ali El, a vintage seller in London, recently encountered a paradoxical nightmare: a massive royal blue Ikea bag overflowing with used clothing, \u201cgifted\u201d to him by a neighbor. You would think this is a dream come true, a heap of free secondhand clothing. But there was no designer in sight. Nothing was older than a few years.<\/p>\n

\u201cI realized that (the entire bag) was fast fashion,\u201d El said. \u201cThis\u00a0 person had spent 1200 pounds (on) fast-fashion pieces to use for a few months and then throw away because they\u2019re not cool anymore.\u201d<\/p>\n

The fashion industry thrives on volatile, cheap trends that propagate a wasteful cycle of buying and disposing. Though sustainability and climate change capture today\u2019s zeitgeist, we continue to fall for the industry\u2019s marketing manipulations and greenwashed promises. While production is undoubtedly unsustainable, the root of the issue is overconsumption. According to Kenneth Pucker, a professor of sustainable business dynamics at Tufts University, we need to change the way we shop, and we need to shop less. And we have to do it on our own volition.<\/p>\n

A toxic cycle <\/strong><\/p>\n

The average American produces 82 pounds of textile waste annually \u2014 about 262 T-shirts \u2014 according to a 2018 study<\/a> <\/u>by the National Center for Biotechnology Information. That same year,\u00a0 11.3 million tons ended up in U.S. landfills, where colorful mountains of cheap fabrics bleed toxins into the environment. If those statistics feel hyperbolic, consider how often you glimpse advertisements for \u201cmust-have\u201d pieces or scroll past influencers brandishing three-part clothing hauls.<\/p>\n

Pucker explained that the dangerous cycle of overproduction and overconsumption is coupled with complicated global supply chains that are hard to trace and make transparency tedious. And disclosure regulations are near non-existent.<\/p>\n

He noted that when fashion companies release emissions reports, the majority of these reports include only Scope 1 and Scope 2 emissions, as characterized by the Greenhouse Gas Emissions Protocol<\/a>. These emissions encompass activities like driving to work and purchasing electricity. They\u2019re not reporting on the big stuff, which is everything else.<\/p>\n

\u201c(Companies) don\u2019t want to do any of that,\u201d Pucker said. \u201cIt costs money, it\u2019s hard, it\u2019s detailed, and the planet is burning.\u201d<\/p>\n

The power of consumers <\/strong><\/p>\n

Shifting to an eco-friendlier future likely will not start from the top. Psychologically, fashion\u00a0corporations have us exactly where they want us; always craving more, our fingers constantly\u00a0 hovering over a purchase button, hungry for the next hot trend. One avenue for change is through legislation, though a\u00a0slow and grueling road. Pucker has been working on the New York Fashion Act<\/a>, which would hold apparel companies accountable for greenhouse gas emissions, for more than three years. Another way to tangentially be kinder to the environment is to shop secondhand. But while buying used does not increase production demand, it also does not tackle the\u00a0root issue of overconsumption.<\/p>\n

An untapped solution lies in the power of consumers. \u201cWhat if \u2018cool\u2019 is having legitimate, individual style and\u00a0not buying a lot of shit?\u201d Pucker said.<\/p>\n

What if instead of buying into disposable trends dictated by avaricious corporations, we discover and invest in clothing that we actually like, and keep it? Unravelling the consumer mindset from decades of cunning marketing is not a simple fix but it is as plausible a solution as any. And it can be done without sacrificing style.<\/p>\n

Retail therapy <\/strong><\/p>\n

Let\u2019s redefine the meaning of retail therapy. Instead of adding to your wardrobe, learn to trim it down to only the pieces that have timeless appeal. As counseling can reveal the cause of\u00a0your commitment issues, Kathleen Fialka, a Chicago-based personal stylist, explained that a \u201ccloset edit\u201d can help unpack your closet (literally). Fialka begins her process with a piece-by-piece examination of her\u00a0clients\u2019 wardrobes to determine what stays and what goes. Although discarding clothing seems counterintuitive, it creates space for better-suited, longer-lasting pieces, which is ultimately the\u00a0key to shopping less.<\/p>\n

Like any transformation, this will not happen overnight. A forever wardrobe takes time and commitment. Mya Gelber, a 28-year-old content creator known for her cohesive wardrobe, said it\u00a0took six years to construct her current collection. She describes her closet as \u201ca perfect mix and\u00a0match.\u201d This is clear from her Instagram, which is freckled with primary colors and reiterations of\u00a0the same sweater-denim-ballet-flat combo.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m pro outfit repeating,\u201d Gelber said. If you love your\u00a0clothes, why wouldn\u2019t you be?<\/p>\n

\"Mya<\/p>\n

Gelber\u2019s Instagram celebrates her love for primary colors and timeless styles (Mya Gelber\/INSTAGRAM)<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Basic is better <\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cI literally have the chills,\u201d said Krista Lavrusik, a fashion content creator, as she described her favorite\u00a0white button-down.<\/p>\n

She is head-over-heels for basics, like white and black T-shirts, flattering jeans\u00a0and a comfy crew neck, and credits her \u201cthrift boyfriends\u201d: Eddie Bauer, Levi\u2019s and \u201cMr. Bean of\u00a0 the L.L. variety.\u201d Basic doesn\u2019t have to mean monochrome or sulky silhouettes. It refers to those versatile pieces you reach for often.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen people feel like they have nothing to wear, it\u2019s usually\u00a0because they have so many (statement pieces),\u201d Fialka said.<\/p>\n

That doesn\u2019t mean you can\u2019t experiment with unconventional styles, just do so thoughtfully, in a way that still feels like you.<\/p>\n

Shop intentionally, not impulsively <\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cI would like to see people do more of their own research,\u201d said Jabari Sandifer, a style consultant from Chicago. \u201cIt\u2019s like looking for a car, right? You\u2019re not just going to buy a car because you\u00a0 saw it on TV. You\u2019re going to test drive the car, you\u2019re going to go to the store and see it.\u201d<\/p>\n

If you can, feel the cashmere before you commit to the price tag. Try out different materials and styles to discover what fits you best. Consider what pieces will serve you long-term.<\/p>\n

\u201cThat\u2019s how we make more conscious spending decisions,\u201d Sandifer said.<\/p>\n

When shopping online, content creator Gelber admits she often waits an entire season before buying something and by then either feels confident in her purchase or proud of her patience. There is also a strong chance the thing in your cart won\u2019t be trendy next month.<\/p>\n

\u201cIf you like it when it\u2019s not cool anymore, that\u2019s how you know,\u201d Sandifer said.<\/p>\n

Hold influencers at a distance <\/strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Gone are the days of spending hours in a store or online searching for a shirt you saw someone wearing on the train. Today, an accessible Instagram link takes you right to the checkout button. While influencers make shopping easy, Sandifer is wary of social media\u2019s contribution to a culture of uniformity. When brands shell out pieces to influencers, \u201cstuff spreads like wildfire,\u201d Sandifer said. Everyone ends up wearing the same things.<\/p>\n

This doesn\u2019t mean you have to go on an unfollow spree. But keep in mind that influencers are profiting from your purchases. Before buying, ask yourself, do I<\/em> like this piece? Do I think it will look good on me<\/em>? Remember, if a content creator is advertising something they were gifted, they <\/em>might not even like it.<\/p>\n

Lavrusik, who uses her platform to promote secondhand shopping and tips for building a capsule wardrobe, advises using social media as a tool, not a means to an end.<\/p>\n

\u201cGo on Pinterest and see what you\u2019re drawn to,\u201d Lavrusik said. \u201cMake boards, organize it, play around.\u201d Then, you can go hunt for that discount code.<\/p>\n

It all circles back to personal style, to creating your own preferences instead of obeying what brands and influencers command you to wear.<\/p>\n

\u201cI can\u2019t accept that people wear just random, cheap stuff nowadays,\u201d El said, in an Italian accent as alla moda <\/em>as his leather collection. \u201cWe are living in the golden era of styling.\u201d<\/p>\n

Julia Gordon is a magazine graduate student at Medill. <\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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