{"id":105541,"date":"2025-06-02T19:10:54","date_gmt":"2025-06-03T00:10:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/?p=105541"},"modified":"2026-01-01T16:05:07","modified_gmt":"2026-01-01T22:05:07","slug":"one-year-since-opening-west-loops-past-studies-is-a-hotspot-for-secondhand-shoppers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/one-year-since-opening-west-loops-past-studies-is-a-hotspot-for-secondhand-shoppers\/","title":{"rendered":"One year since opening, West Loop\u2019s Past Studies is a hotspot for secondhand shoppers"},"content":{"rendered":"

By Payton Turkeltaub
\n<\/b>Medill Reports<\/i><\/p>\n

From the racks of vintage Levi\u2019s and Missoni tops to a table covered in Chanel ballet flats, shopping at Past Studies feels a lot more like peeking inside a fashion lover\u2019s dream wardrobe than it does stepping inside a traditional retail store. The airy West Loop loft the vintage designer store calls home is decorated like one too; pastel pink sofas fill the space, as do racks of watches, wallets and purses so neatly organized you\u2019d think they\u2019ve come from someone\u2019s personal collection. The price tags are the only detail that might clue you in that everything is, in fact, available for purchase. This was done by design.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt should feel like your closet and you\u2019re trying stuff on, instead of feeling like you’re in a store,\u201d\u00a0 owner Katherine Guo said.<\/span><\/p>\n

One year since opening, Past Studies has become a hotspot for seasoned vintage lovers, first-time secondhand shoppers and everyone in between. And it\u2019s not just Chicago residents who are fans \u2013 some customers even fly in to visit, Guo said. But beyond selling coveted designer items, Past Studies is building a community of devoted consumers focused on elevating their personal style, one piece at a time.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI think that’s how we’re capturing people who are just getting into vintage,\u201d Guo said. \u201cThey start with their first Fendi bag, their first Louis Vuitton bag, their first Chanel bag, and they’re like, \u2018Oh my God, vintage is so cool.\u2019\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Growing up, Guo was focused on STEM \u2013 not designer clothes. The 26-year-old graduated from Duke University with degrees in computer science and economics in 2019 and worked as a <\/span>quantitative<\/span> trading analyst at Chicago Trading Company <\/span>before starting Past Studies. But fashion was always her creative outlet.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWhen I was in a corporate role, I would wear these crazy outfits,\u201d Guo said. \u201cI’d pull up to work, and they’d be like, \u2018Oh, what’s with your outfit? Is it supposed to be wrinkled?\u2019\u201d\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

It wasn\u2019t until Guo was laid off from her job and began selling at local vintage markets that she met Maria Coss, now the general manager of Past Studies. The duo turned out to be a perfect team \u2013 Coss\u2019s\u00a0 retail background (the 27-year-old previously worked at Ganni, Coach and Reformation) worked well with Guo\u2019s financial one. Since opening, the team has grown to include nearly 10 part-time employees.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI honestly think that’s why we’ve made it this far,\u201d Coss said. \u201cShe teaches me things all the time. I teach her things all the time. It’s a good marriage.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Past Studies fills a niche in the West Loop \u2013 one of the reasons why Guo doesn\u2019t see them relocating any time soon.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cChicago has a very fragmented retail space,\u201d Guo said, pointing out the pockets of thrift stores in Wicker Park and high-end shopping on Oak Street.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Currently, the store operates on a by-appointment basis, allowing customers to reserve private shopping sessions Wednesday through Friday. This allows each shopper a more focused, specialized experience than a traditional retailer.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cYou feel more comfortable changing or sifting through things when you are by yourself,\u201d Guo said. \u201cA lot of people end up just walking around barefoot in the store because they\u2019re the only ones here.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

She estimated nearly half of their total monthly sales come from appointments, with the rest of the revenue coming from their Saturday open houses, shopping events, e-commerce and their Instagram, <\/span>@PastStudies<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe have a few clients that don’t live here and operate solely through direct messages,\u201d Coss said.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Community-focused marketing efforts have been a key path to success for the store, whether it\u2019s an after-work shopping event, weekend coffee pop-up or hyper-local social media posts. Influencers have also given Past Studies shoutouts on TikTok, something that often prompts an influx of activity. Guo says in April, she helped a woman who made an appointment after seeing a creator\u2019s post about their purchase on TikTok.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Social media was how 42-year-old May Rioux said she first found the store. She has since visited four times and previously purchased a Celine crossbody. This trip, she had her eyes on a top-handle purse (also Celine) before another customer scooped it up. She picked up a black and white Chanel bowler bag to illustrate its shape.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s beautiful stuff,\u201d Rioux said. \u201cIt’s also a fun place to just browse around.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

During a recent Saturday open house, a steady stream of shoppers circulated the studio, sifting through racks of Issey Miyake, Dior and Gucci ready-to-wear, and sliding Fendi baguettes (a pink one is $995) and Prada bags (a studded nylon backpack is marked at $695) over their shoulders. Some browsed the front corner of the store, where classic damier print Louis Vuitton pochettes, Speedys and duffles were nestled. Others looked through racks of vintage Levi\u2019s, which start around $140.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The store\u2019s inventory was curated intentionally, primarily through private collectors and vintage wholesalers that allow the team to purchase specific items, said Guo. The focus has always been on quality over quantity \u2013 in turn, customers are more purposeful about how they shop.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cYou don’t have to walk out with 10 things,\u201d Guo said. \u201cYou can walk out with one or two intentional things, and be like, \u2018Wow, I really am going to use this piece a lot.\u2019\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

In an average month, Guo said the store brings in anywhere from mid-five figures to low six figures in revenue. And while roughly 200 customers make purchases each month, the number of visitors the store sees is \u201ctwo, three, four times that,\u201d according to her. Repeat customers comprise about 25% of that number.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s really great for us and speaks to the relationships we build,\u201d Guo said. \u201cPeople just feel comfortable coming here, which is the number one priority for us.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Coss echoed the sentiment: \u201cUltimately, it’s about the connection.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

One year down, the team has started to think about what comes next for Past Studies \u2013 whether it\u2019s a new space or a clothing line.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt would be great to have a standalone ground-floor retail space somewhere, but we just haven’t found our fit,\u201d Guo said. She followed this up by saying it would also be a more significant financial risk than their current loft space.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe were focusing more on building a better foundation on the business, then ramping up slowly. We were never really in the rush to do things. I think that’s what’s allowed us to grow intentionally.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Payton Turkeltaub is a graduate student at Medill in the Magazine specialization. <\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

By Payton Turkeltaub Medill Reports From the racks of vintage Levi\u2019s and Missoni tops to a table covered in Chanel ballet flats, shopping at Past Studies feels a lot more like peeking inside a fashion lover\u2019s dream wardrobe than it does stepping inside a traditional retail store. The airy West Loop loft the vintage designer […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":989,"featured_media":105620,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[27,5251,5542,5493],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-105541","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-business","category-chicago","category-msj25","category-spring-2025"],"yoast_head":"\nOne year since opening, West Loop\u2019s Past Studies is a hotspot for secondhand shoppers - Medill Reports Chicago<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/one-year-since-opening-west-loops-past-studies-is-a-hotspot-for-secondhand-shoppers\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"One year since opening, West Loop\u2019s Past Studies is a hotspot for secondhand shoppers - Medill Reports Chicago\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Payton Turkeltaub Medill Reports From the racks of vintage Levi\u2019s and Missoni tops to a table covered in Chanel ballet flats, shopping at Past Studies feels a lot more like peeking inside a fashion lover\u2019s dream wardrobe than it does stepping inside a traditional retail store. 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