{"id":14008,"date":"2015-05-09T10:52:25","date_gmt":"2015-05-09T15:52:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/?p=14008"},"modified":"2015-05-09T10:52:25","modified_gmt":"2015-05-09T15:52:25","slug":"how-chicago-became-the-top-fair-trade-city-in-the-united-states","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/how-chicago-became-the-top-fair-trade-city-in-the-united-states\/","title":{"rendered":"How Chicago became the top &#8220;fair trade&#8221; city in the United States"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>By Megan Kramer<\/p>\n<p>Rich Troche, manager of Everybody\u2019s Coffee in Uptown, knows everything about the shop\u2019s medium-roast \u201cCoffee of the Month\u201d \u2013 who roasted it, where it was grown, how it was processed and even what different processes do to the beans.<\/p>\n<p>In March the featured coffee came from the San Ignacio farm in Peru and was roasted by the Metropolis Coffee Company in Chicago. The coffee has a tangy lemon undertone and is served in purple ceramic mugs.<\/p>\n<p>Alternative rock plays unobtrusively throughout the large, open space at the cafe. Baristas serve specialty drinks to customers who are chatting or working on laptops amid stacks of books. To care for both its patrons and the farmers who grow the beans, Everybody\u2019s Coffee serves fair trade and direct trade coffee from around the world.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>According to the Washington-based, nonprofit Fair Trade Federation, fair trade is \u201can approach to business and development based on dialogue, transparency and respect that seeks to create greater equity in the international trading system.\u201d In a fair trade agreement, farmers and artisans in developing countries negotiate fair prices for their products, which usually result in a better payout.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_14527\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-14527\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2015\/05\/FairTrade_david.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-14527\" src=\"http:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2015\/05\/FairTrade_david-300x239.jpg\" alt=\"David Meyers, roasting coffee in Rogers Park, is the mind behind the Chicago Coffee Confederation and Caf\u00e9 Chicago. (Megan Kramer\/Medill)\" width=\"300\" height=\"239\" srcset=\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2015\/05\/FairTrade_david-300x239.jpg 300w, https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2015\/05\/FairTrade_david.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-14527\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">David Meyers, roasting coffee in Rogers Park, is the mind behind the Chicago Coffee Confederation and Caf\u00e9 Chicago. (Megan Kramer\/Medill)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The U.S. Food and Drug Administration regulates fair trade labeling, while nonprofits including Fairtrade International and Fair Trade USA certify and set standards and minimum prices for products. Direct trade is similar to fair trade, but buyers negotiate directly with sellers rather than through a fair trade middleman. While some see direct trade as more efficient, there are disadvantages for sellers and consumers if buyers don\u2019t set their standards very high.<\/p>\n<p>Fair trade farmers and artisans also aim to pay their workers a fair wage, avoid sweatshop conditions and child labor and attempt to engage in environmentally friendly practices.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Bringing it home<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>With the help of Chicago Fair Trade, Chicago became a fair trade city in May 2011, making it the largest such city in the U.S. and the third-largest globally after London and Toronto. Founded in 2006, Chicago Fair Trade comprises 70 member organizations including businesses, nonprofits and universities.<\/p>\n<p>In order to gain fair trade status for the city, Chicago Fair Trade and volunteers created a campaign through Fair Trade Campaigns, a global organization dedicated to increasing consumer awareness about fair trade, and met the required goals. These included reaching out to retailers and community organizations and getting them to offer fair trade products.<\/p>\n<p>Today over 300 outlets sell fair trade goods in Chicago, and Chicago Fair Trade is working to establish fair trade institutions (such as schools, universities and hospitals) in each of the city\u2019s 77 neighborhoods.<\/p>\n<p>In an attempt to offer social justice in a mug, Everybody\u2019s Coffee opened in February 2014 at 935 W. Wilson Ave.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe idea when we opened was that we could brew coffee that was ethically sourced and bought,\u201d Troche said. \u201cA lot of the coffee we buy is roasted here in Chicago. We work with roasters who buy direct and fair trade coffee and bring it here to the city as a green bean, and then they roast it here.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The shop offers dark roast and a different medium, single-origin roast each month with the aim of appealing to a range of coffee drinkers\u2019 tastes.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cSomeone who just wants a dark roast coffee, like my grandfather, can come in and buy that,\u201d Troche said. \u201cSomebody who enjoys fair trade organic and direct trade coffee, and wants to hear the story of where the coffee came from and how it was processed, can come in as well.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_14526\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-14526\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2015\/05\/FairTrade_shop.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-14526\" src=\"http:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2015\/05\/FairTrade_shop-300x212.jpg\" alt=\"Everybody\u2019s Coffee opened in Uptown in February 2014 and sells fair trade and direct trade coffee. (Megan Kramer\/Medill)\" width=\"300\" height=\"212\" srcset=\"https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/medill.wordpress.offload\/WP%20Media%20Folder%20-%20medill-reports-chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2015\/05\/FairTrade_shop-300x212.jpg 300w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/medill.wordpress.offload\/WP%20Media%20Folder%20-%20medill-reports-chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2015\/05\/FairTrade_shop.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-14526\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Everybody\u2019s Coffee opened in Uptown in February 2014 and sells fair trade and direct trade coffee. (Megan Kramer\/Medill)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Everybody\u2019s Coffee emphasizes relationships, whether between farmer and roaster, shop and customer, or even customer and customer.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cCoffee is very much about relationships,\u201d Troche said. \u201cThat\u2019s why people go to coffee shops a lot of times, to meet people and talk with people.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>He added that the shop wants be the \u201cthird place\u201d for its customers. \u201cThe first place is your home, the second is your work and the third place is where you hang out,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Caf\u00e9 Chicago project<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>In 2011 the Latino Union of Chicago and the Chicago Coffee Confederation, a group of small-batch coffee roasters, teamed up to create their own fair trade endeavor, Caf\u00e9 Chicago, which takes the fair trade model and applies it locally. The company buys coffee beans from La FEM farmers, a farming cooperative in Esteli, Nicaragua, that is run entirely by women and focuses on women\u2019s rights and empowerment.<\/p>\n<p>Caf\u00e9 Chicago then roasts, packages and sells the coffee to local restaurants, grocery stores and directly to consumers from its website. All proceeds go to the nonprofit Latino Union of Chicago, which works to improve social and economic conditions for low-income immigrant workers through various programs that address issues including unsafe working conditions, immigration reform and policies, and leadership and other training.<\/p>\n<p>Caf\u00e9 Chicago took the fair trade movement a step further not only by helping La FEM farmers and their families in Nicaragua but also by providing jobs for and teaching new skills to immigrant workers in Chicago.<\/p>\n<p>Originally from Mexico City, Alejandro Serrano has worked as a roaster at Caf\u00e9 Chicago for the last 18 months and says he is learning a lot on the job.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe focus on improving our skills, learning every day more about coffee and the coffee roasting business,\u201d he said. \u201cWe also focus on sales and on training new members so they can participate in the cooperative.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Serrano says there are currently five people employed at Caf\u00e9 Chicago in North Park and that the leadership of the organization has improved. They are working to expand the business in order to make it self-sufficient and separate from the Latino Union while still supporting it, Serrano said. Caf\u00e9 Chicago advertises its coffee on Facebook and other websites.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Not without setbacks<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Meanwhile, the Chicago Coffee Confederation has hit a few bumps in its conceptual road. David Meyers founded the confederation in 2009 when his original business venture, Resistance Coffee, started to grow. The group eventually comprised three fair-trade and organic coffee roasters \u2013 Grinderman Coffee, Miscellaneous Treats and Resistance Coffee \u2013 but is now much smaller.<br \/>\n\u201cCCC is largely merely an idea now,\u201d Meyers said. \u201cOur other coffee roasters, who were great contributors to the development of Caf\u00e9 Chicago, have moved to other cities.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Even though Meyers acknowledges that fair trade as an alternative economic model can be a struggle due to factors like these, he said it can still be a movement for justice by \u201ctaking bites out of the capitalist economy and making it more social.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>While smaller fair trade projects can encounter problems, larger-scale fair trade endeavors are no strangers to controversy.<br \/>\nIn July 2013 The Christian Science Monitor reported that the Starbucks C.A.F.E. (Coffee and Farmer Equity) Practices program was under fire for false fair trade claims. Reporter Kelsey Timmerman visited coffee growers in El Tabl\u00f3n de Gomez and Nari\u00f1o, Colombia, where Starbucks was reportedly buying its coffee.<\/p>\n<p>According to the report, very few people in these locations had heard of Starbucks or recognized its logo when he first asked around \u2013 even though the company claimed that there were 22,000 farms participating in its program. Timmerman eventually found some faded white C.A.F.E. Practices plaques affixed to the sides of homes, yet people living in them either had not heard of Starbucks or said that they were still waiting for the company\u2019s help.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cEven the farmers who sell knowingly to Starbucks and those who had received assistance prefer to get their beans certified by and sold to Nespresso [the Swiss coffee brand from Nestl\u00e9], which pays 28 cents more per kilogram,\u201d Timmerman wrote.<\/p>\n<p>Starbucks still advertises ethical sourcing on its website and cites C.A.F.E Practices as a fundamental program for \u201c[ensuring] coffee quality while promoting social, economic and environmental standards.\u201d The company claims that 95.3 percent of its coffee was ethically sourced in 2013. Starbucks set a goal to reach 100 percent ethically sourced coffee by 2015, but queries to its corporate media relations division about the company\u2019s progress resulted in referrals to the Starbucks website.<\/p>\n<p>To figure out if a specific coffee really is fair trade, Troche suggests getting as close to the \u201cheart\u201d of the product as possible.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cConsumers who want to know if their coffee is fair trade or not [should] talk to the roaster,\u201d he said. \u201cIf you\u2019re buying roasted coffee, especially specialty coffee, you can ask them where, what co-op, why, how they bought it, how is it fair trade. They would know all these things because they\u2019re the ones who bought it.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong>Beyond java<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Fair trade is not limited to coffee, however, and the range of products it encompasses is constantly expanding \u2013 from fruits and vegetables to clothing and wine. According to a survey done by Fair Trade USA, fair trade produce imports into the U.S. rose 37 percent from 2012 to 2013. Fair trade consumer packaged goods (including wine, sugar, cocoa and spices) imports rose 17.5 percent over the same period. Premiums, or money paid to farmers and artisans who grew\/made the fair trade products, rose 5 percent over 2013, totaling nearly $40 million across 70 countries.<\/p>\n<p>When successful, the far reach of the fair trade movement supports development in communities and cultures around the world. The nonprofit ASSIST Society in southwest suburban Evergreen Park, Illinois, was established in January 2013 by CEO and chief fundraiser Shannon Harris. After raising funds for many organizations and philanthropy projects including Save Darfur and Haiti Relief Fund, Harris wanted to create his own.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI decided to place all of my efforts toward global projects that allowed me to become a greater example of being the change I wanted to see in the world,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p>ASSIST works with low-income communities including the Maasai and Samburu peoples in Kenya to preserve and enhance their ways of life through educational programs, resource assistance and self-sufficiency training. One of ASSIST\u2019s main projects is the Sustainable Reinvestment Program, which involves buying and selling fair trade jewelry made by 20 Maasai women.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe fair trade with the women, so we purchase jewelry at fair trade value \u2013 they tell us how much they want,\u201d Harris said.<br \/>\nASSIST then imports the jewelry, sells it and uses the profits to buy useful resources for the Kenyan communities, such as tanks that harness rainwater. The jewelry is sold at local fair trade shows and online to people around the world.<\/p>\n<p>The money the women receive directly from ASSIST for their jewelry is also used to purchase sustainable resources, such as metal roofing and concrete slabs to house their new water tanks. Everything ASSIST buys is discussed with each person or community to better assess what they need and what will be most beneficial.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cTell us what the community wants, and we\u2019ll do the homework to try and figure out how to get it,\u201d Harris said of the discussions. \u201cAnd if what you want isn\u2019t sustainable, we\u2019ll help guide you and figure out [what is].<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe\u2019re teaching them how to use some of the things that they are familiar with and educating them on how to save that money and how that money can go toward getting things like water tanks,\u201d he added.<\/p>\n<p>Once women have tanks and can effectively harness rainwater for individual and family consumption, ASSIST teaches them to use the water for gardening and small-scale farming, which provide sustenance and income.<\/p>\n<p>The fair trade proceeds are also used in a \u201cmerry-go-round\u201d micro-lending program, in which a group of Maasai women contribute a certain amount at the end of every month, and a different member receives the money.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Encouraging sustainability<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Each facet of ASSIST\u2019s programs works toward the goal of sustainability, which has become a buzzword in development circles. McDonald\u2019s billboards claim that \u201csustainable fish\u201d are used in its Filet-O-Fish sandwiches. Hyundai produced but then quickly retracted its controversial 2013 sustainability commercial in which a man tries to commit suicide by asphyxiating on the tailpipe exhaust of his ix35 Crossover but fails because the car is powered by a hydrogen fuel cell and emits only water. As with the Starbucks C.A.F.E. scenario, questions about true sustainability and what the phrase means can arise.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cSustainability has become a very pop phrase,\u201d Harris said. \u201cFor our organization, it\u2019s not about influencing people to change, or to impact their culture so drastically that they become us. Sustainability to us is inspiring people to see how they themselves have the solution to their own problems. They just need assistance.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Along with income generation and development, environmental sustainability is also a major focus of the fair trade movement.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cSustainable would mean knowing that the roasters and the coffee farmers are being taken care of, their farms are being taken care of, their equipment is getting updated,\u201d Troche said. \u201cAs we buy and sell coffee that\u2019s more expensive, that means there\u2019s more money for them to use as a farm.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Ultimately, Harris said, fair trade is \u201call about survival. And survival is just trying to sustain yourself and your family, your culture and your environment.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"featurecaption\">Photo at top:\u00a0Everybody\u2019s Coffee\u2019s Peruvian \u201cCoffee of the Month\u201d in the shop\u2019s signature ceramic mug. (Megan Kramer\/Medill)<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Megan Kramer Rich Troche, manager of Everybody\u2019s Coffee in Uptown, knows everything about the shop\u2019s medium-roast \u201cCoffee of the Month\u201d \u2013 who roasted it, where it was grown, how it was processed and even what different processes do to the beans. In March the featured coffee came from the San Ignacio farm in Peru [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":14528,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[452,436],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14008","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-beyond-chicago","category-spring-2015"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>How Chicago became the top &quot;fair trade&quot; city in the United States - Medill Reports Chicago<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/how-chicago-became-the-top-fair-trade-city-in-the-united-states\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"How Chicago became the top &quot;fair trade&quot; city in the United States - Medill Reports Chicago\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Megan Kramer Rich Troche, manager of Everybody\u2019s Coffee in Uptown, knows everything about the shop\u2019s medium-roast \u201cCoffee of the Month\u201d \u2013 who roasted it, where it was grown, how it was processed and even what different processes do to the beans. 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