{"id":26312,"date":"2016-01-27T16:08:50","date_gmt":"2016-01-27T22:08:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/?p=26312"},"modified":"2016-01-27T16:08:50","modified_gmt":"2016-01-27T22:08:50","slug":"david-bowie-fashion-chameleon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/david-bowie-fashion-chameleon\/","title":{"rendered":"David Bowie: Fashion Chameleon"},"content":{"rendered":"

By Alexandra Whittaker<\/strong><\/p>\n

In spring 2013, fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier created a collection inspired by rock stars of the 60s, 70s, and 80s. Unlike a traditional runway show, Gaultier\u2019s show was set to blaring rock music, and dark silhouettes of dancers moved behind a fog machine in the background.<\/p>\n

In a collection full of wow moments, the only look that received audible gasps from the audience was Gaultier\u2019s tribute to Ziggy Stardust. The Ziggy model walked down the catwalk with a bright orange wig, jewel-toned star cutouts on her neck and a star-spangled fishnet cat suit with one leg missing.<\/p>\n

If anyone wondered how David Bowie impacted fashion, they didn\u2019t need to look further than the Gaultier show.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

David Bowie, who died on January 10 after an 18-month battle with liver cancer, inspired many fashion houses and fashion icons alike. He made a lasting impact on the fashion industry as a whole, particularly during a resurgence of the \u201cglam rock\u201d trend in the early 2010s.<\/p>\n

Riccardo Tisci\u2019s ready-to-wear collection for Givenchy in spring 2010 paid homage to Bowie\u2019s glam rock character Aladdin Sane with geometric striped jackets. Christophe Decarnin\u2019s 2011 collection for Balmain followed suit, with Aladdin Sane-style crystal encrusted jumpsuits, and 70s silhouettes. Bowie\u2019s music video for the song \u201cLife on Mars\u201d inspired Miu Miu\u2019s fall 2012 show, whose models wore lapelled suits and bright lightning bolts across their eyes, and Bowie inspired Jonathan Saunders to model his 2013 menswear show after Bowie\u2019s \u201cplastic soul\u201d years.<\/p>\n

Bowie inspired these designs in both obvious and subtle ways. Saunders took inspiration from the large lapelled powder blue suits that Bowie wore in his glossy post-Ziggy Stardust era and created a formal menswear collection with similar silhouettes.<\/p>\n

Gaultier\u2019s \u201cRock Stars\u201d show was a more obvious homage to Bowie\u2019s Ziggy Stardust. It was not surprising that Bowie was included so explicitly in the collection because Gaultier believed Bowie was an \u201cabsolute rockstar.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201c[Bowie] inspired me by his creativity, extravagance, allure, elegance, androgyny and sense of fashion\u201d Gaultier said in a tweet after Bowie\u2019s death.<\/p>\n

Bowie’s fashion legacy isn\u2019t limited to the designers he inspired. His own fashion choices were also unusual. Conrad Hamather, a School of the Art Institute of Chicago fashion design professor, said Bowie\u2019s outfits were influential partly because they had nothing to do with trends.<\/p>\n

\u201cAs with any great in-control innovator, it was about feeling the skin, wearing what you felt from within,\u201d Hamather said. \u201cIt didn’t matter who the designer was, it was about the commitment to the moment.\u201d<\/p>\n

Unlike other rock stars, Bowie often wore outfits from lesser-known and up-and-coming designers.<\/p>\n

\"Thin
Wardrobe for Bowie’s Thin White Duke at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. “Installation Shot of David Bowie is at the V&A” is courtesy David Bowie Archive (c) Victoria and Albert Museum.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One of these designers was Alexander McQueen, the late British fashion designer and couturier. McQueen designed the Union Jack coat on the Earthling (1997)<\/em> album and created the wardrobe for Bowie\u2019s 1996-1997 tour, in the same period in which McQueen became the head designer at Givenchy.<\/p>\n

Bowie\u2019s album covers were unique, but his real fashion tour-de-force was his stage wear. It was unusual, gender-bending and regularly raised eyebrows while simultaneously starting trends. Bowie played with color, asymmetry, heavy makeup, partial nudity and androgyny, constantly reinventing himself while on stage.<\/p>\n

His influence prompted the Victoria and Albert Museum in London to create an exhibit called David Bowie is<\/em> in 2013 that traced Bowie\u2019s influence across music, fashion, photography, graphics, film, theatre and art. The travelling exhibit broke records at Chicago’s Museum of Contemporary Art when it arrived in the city in 2014.<\/p>\n

In an interview this week, Victoria Broackes, the London-based co-curator of David Bowie is<\/em>, said Bowie\u2019s stage costumes were original.<\/p>\n

\u201cBowie\u2019s exceptional stage costumes, including Ziggy Stardust bodysuits, 1972, designed by Freddie Burretti, Kansai Yamamoto\u2019s flamboyant creations for the Aladdin Sane tour, 1973, and the Ashes to Ashes Pierrot costume by Natasha Korniloff, 1980, all demonstrate some of his radical innovations in fashion and his theatrical displays of androgyny, and illustrate his shifting style and sustained reinvention,\u201d Broackes said.<\/p>\n

One of Bowie\u2019s favorite stage costume designers was Japanese designer Kansai Yamamoto. Yamamoto, who created Bowie\u2019s zigzag-stitched Tokyo Pop jumpsuit that tore away into a tight bodysuit, collaborated with Bowie frequently.<\/p>\n

“He was someone who knew how to express himself both with music and with fashion,” Yamamoto said in an interview with the BBC. “Someone like that may not be so rare these days, but he was one of the pioneers to do both.”<\/p>\n

Bowie used Japanese influences in his stage wear, with kimono-inspired capes and space samurai outfits. Kabuki theater inspired his tear away costumes and Ziggy Stardust\u2019s bold highlighted features and whitened skin. Bowie used these Japanese influences to push against accepted norms.<\/p>\n

\u201cBowie continually unsettled the status quo and led by example,” said Broackes, “pushing the boundaries of fashion, gender and popular culture.\u201d<\/p>\n

Bowie\u2019s fashion choices also influenced people off the runway, especially other musicians. Lady Gaga donned Bowie\u2019s familiar Aladdin Sane lightning bolt in her debut single \u201cJust Dance,\u201d and Prince wore quilted two-piece suits years after Bowie did.<\/p>\n

\"Quilted
One of David Bowie’s quilted suit stage costumes at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. “Installation Shot of David Bowie is at the V&A” is courtesy David Bowie Archive (c) Victoria and Albert Museum.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cBowie’s radical individualism inspired people to be whoever they want to be,\u201d Broackes said. \u201cBy dressing in unexpected and subversive ways, Bowie expressed himself through clothes, and inspired others to do the same.\u201d<\/p>\n

Bowie was innovative, both in fashion and in life. His fashion choices were influential because they reflected his distinctive personality. According to Hamather, this kind of individuality could be a dying art among fashion students today.<\/p>\n

\u201cBowie was about transcending trends and being ahead of the curve, staying out of the fashion trend gutter,\u201d Hamather said. \u201cThese days I don’t believe students have the patience or ability to feel that calmness within their own work to aspire to build ahead of trend. They are too worried about making it and being published.\u201d<\/p>\n

Not only was Bowie not worried about trends, he also wasn\u2019t particularly worried his impact on fashion,, famously saying he only wanted \u201cto look how [the music] sounds.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cBowie said himself that he was not particularly interested in fashion per se,” said Broackes, “but the evidence of his impact on fashion is everywhere.”<\/p>\n

This fashion impact spreads across generations and industries and spans from Bowie\u2019s early performances in the mid-60s with a fitted suit and mop top hair to his last music video for “Lazarus,” where he portrayed a dead spaceman.<\/p>\n

\u201cBowie is a complex intellect,” Hamather said. “It will be years of critics and aesthetes trying to crack the code that Bowie created “Lazarus,” that is the perfect Bowie gift.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cIn a great way, his legacy has passed with him,” he added. “As much as people try to follow in his oeuvre, it is done, time has passed. It was a moment.\u201d<\/p>\n

Photo at top: A selection of David Bowie’s stage costumes at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. (Installation Shot of David Bowie is at the V&A is courtesy David Bowie Archive (c) Victoria and Albert Museum.)<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

By Alexandra Whittaker In spring 2013, fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier created a collection inspired by rock stars of the 60s, 70s, and 80s. Unlike a traditional runway show, Gaultier\u2019s show was set to blaring rock music, and dark silhouettes of dancers moved behind a fog machine in the background. In a collection full of […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":219,"featured_media":26318,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[194,585],"tags":[995,994,996,648,997,998,1001,1000,999],"class_list":["post-26312","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arts-culture","category-winter-2016","tag-bowie","tag-david-bowie","tag-david-bowie-fashion","tag-fashion","tag-fashion-news","tag-museum-of-contemporary-art","tag-saic","tag-school-of-the-art-institute-of-chicago","tag-victoria-and-albert-museum"],"yoast_head":"\nDavid Bowie: Fashion Chameleon - Medill Reports Chicago<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/david-bowie-fashion-chameleon\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"David Bowie: Fashion Chameleon - Medill Reports Chicago\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Alexandra Whittaker In spring 2013, fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier created a collection inspired by rock stars of the 60s, 70s, and 80s. 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