{"id":31915,"date":"2016-02-24T11:25:52","date_gmt":"2016-02-24T17:25:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/?p=31915"},"modified":"2016-02-25T09:48:29","modified_gmt":"2016-02-25T15:48:29","slug":"artist-aims-for-radical-visibility-with-new-clothing-line-for-queer-people-with-disabilities","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/artist-aims-for-radical-visibility-with-new-clothing-line-for-queer-people-with-disabilities\/","title":{"rendered":"Artist aims for radical visibility with new clothing line for queer people with disabilities"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>By <a href=\"http:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/?s=rebekah+frumkin\" target=\"_blank\">Rebekah Frumkin<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"dropcap\">Sky Cubacub, who uses the personal pronoun \u201cthey,\u201d runs excitedly around this Lakeview studio, retrieving various <a href=\"http:\/\/www.bluebuddhaboutique.com\/blog\/2015\/06\/20-epic-designs-that-will-change-how-you-think-of-chainmaille-its-not-just-for-knights\/\" target=\"_blank\">chainmaille<\/a> garments in the process. The bounty includes a chainmaille vest, a halter dress and bands of \u201cmetamaille,\u201d or chainmaille that has itself been woven into a chainmaille pattern.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI\u2019m super drawn to chainmaille because of its texture, and the way it moves,\u201d Cubacub says, smiling. \u201cIt\u2019s like: kinetics!\u201d<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Cubacub, whose gender does not conform to the male-female binary, is a <a href=\"http:\/\/genderqueerid.com\/what-is-gq\" target=\"_blank\">genderqueer<\/a> garment-maker and performance artist whose sculptural chainmaille garments are an integral part of a\u00a0new clothing collection, Rebirth Garments. But chainmaille isn\u2019t the only thing that makes Rebirth unique: the clothing is designed specifically for people who are <a href=\"https:\/\/community.pflag.org\/abouttheq\" target=\"_blank\">queer<\/a> and\/or transgender and have disabilities, a demographic Cubacub refers to as \u201cqueercrip.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201c \u2018Crip\u2019 is the politicized, umbrella term for people with disabilities, inclusive of people with all kinds of disabilities and disorders \u2026physical, developmental, emotional, psychological,\u201d Cubacub says. \u201cI like using \u2018queer\u2019 and \u2018crip\u2019 together because that\u2019s what describes my line the best.&#8221;<\/p>\n<div class=\"quoteright\">\u201cInstead of being centered on cisgender, heterosexual, white, thin people, my line is centered on queercrip people.\u201d &#8211; Sky Cubacub<\/div>\n<p>Cubacub designs garments with individual wearers in mind, calling upon queercrip clients to describe aspects of their bodies that make them feel confident or vulnerable and then tailoring looks accordingly.<\/p>\n<p>Carrie Kaufman is a friend and model of Cubacub\u2019s who has collaborated with the designer on a number of garments for people with disabilities. Kaufman, who uses a wheelchair, is excited by the prospect of adaptive clothing that is also creative and attractive. Her favorite piece is a pink lace miniskirt designed to look like a mermaid\u2019s tail.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe tail goes over both my legs and attaches with garter clips to an amazing hip-hugging miniskirt of shiny underwater colors,\u201d Kaufman says. \u201cSo it\u2019s a brilliant and sexy design, plus a subversive and radical way to take advantage of the fact that my legs don\u2019t move, and that they actually look best in a mermaid type of pose.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Rebirth pieces for trans people include binders designed to flatten the chest and \u201cpackers\u201d that mimic a phallic shape. Pieces for people with disabilities include catheter covers and drool cloths for those whose motor function impedes swallowing saliva. All pieces burst with Rebirth\u2019s signature blend of bold lines and electric color. Some pieces \u2013 a multicolored stocking for an artificial leg, a chain that rattles against a foot cast \u2013 draw attention to the wearer\u2019s disability, a type of hyperintentional design Cubacub calls \u201cradical visibility.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Even on a casual day, Cubacub is a walking example of radical visibility. Small and slight, Cubacub wears a colorful Rebirth unitard beneath a purple hoodie. Cubacub mentions the unitard is made of Spandex, a favored material for its elastic ability to accommodate wearers of all sizes. On Cubacub\u2019s right hand is a half-glove of \u201cscalemaille,\u201d a chainmaille pattern featuring\u00a0woven beads shaped like lizard\u2019s scales. Beneath the right eye is a geometric design \u2013 makeup, not a tattoo. The look\u2019s pi\u00e8ce de r\u00e9sistance is a headpiece of scalemaille that gives the impression of a futuristic swimming cap.<\/p>\n<p>Cubacub, who has been diagnosed with anxiety and panic disorder, says the headpiece functions as a form of armor. Typically anxious and shy in social situations, Cubacub feels confident wearing the conversation-starting scalemaille. The garment has the added benefit of confusing and deterring likely harassers.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAll my clothing is supposed to be emotional armor,\u201d Cubacub says. \u201cKind of inviting but also saying, \u2018I\u2019m bold enough to be wearing this, so you can stay away.\u2019 Like brightly colored, poisonous frogs or beetles.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_31920\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31920\" style=\"width: 474px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-31920\" src=\"http:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2016\/02\/Model-1024x681.jpg\" alt=\"Model\" width=\"474\" height=\"315\" srcset=\"https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/medill.wordpress.offload\/WP%20Media%20Folder%20-%20medill-reports-chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2016\/02\/Model-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/medill.wordpress.offload\/WP%20Media%20Folder%20-%20medill-reports-chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2016\/02\/Model-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/medill.wordpress.offload\/WP%20Media%20Folder%20-%20medill-reports-chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2016\/02\/Model-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/medill.wordpress.offload\/WP%20Media%20Folder%20-%20medill-reports-chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2016\/02\/Model.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 474px) 100vw, 474px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-31920\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cubacub models a cape-in-progress. (Rebekah Frumkin\/MEDILL)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The child of a video artist and dancer\/ornament-maker, Cubacub is no stranger to the creative life. Cubacub&#8217;s mother brought her 2-month-old to her art shows, and Cubacub was selling wares by age 10. By 13, those creations\u00a0included chainmaille jewelry.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cSky was able to visualize difficult weaves right away,\u201d says Rebeca Mojica, who first taught Cubacub how to weave chainmaille. \u201cIn the 18 years I\u2019ve taught the dragon scale weave \u2013 and I\u2019ve taught it to somewhere between 60 and 100 people \u2013 I\u2019ve only had one person finish the bracelet, and that was Sky.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Cubacub attended Northside College Preparatory High School, winning a full scholarship to the School of the Art Institute of Chicago on the basis of a garment collection called Repetitive Motion. Northside faculty recall a dedicated and unusually gifted student.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cSky was a very unique high school kid,\u201d says art department chair Joanne Minyo. \u201cThey had a clear vision of what they wanted to do from a really early age, and they were driven to a ridiculous degree.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Minyo remembers Cubacub wrestling with a drill in the process of making a chainmaille outfit for Repetitive Motion. Eager to finish the outfit before the showcase, Cubacub accidentally increased the speed of the drill, resulting in the loss of a thumbnail.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe crazy thing was Sky was angry but was not upset about the pain,\u201d Minyo says. \u201cThey were more upset that this was going to put them off schedule for finishing all their outfits. But of course they got all their outfits done. Nothing stopped Sky.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>At SAIC, Cubacub met with ideological opposition: a fashion department that cherished thinness, had little interest in disability and frowned upon Cubacub\u2019s practice of using friends as models.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThey\u2019re constantly telling you, \u2018This is how the fashion world is and you can\u2019t change it,\u2019 \u201d Cubacub says. \u201cThey\u2019re just teaching us to assimilate. It\u2019s all very ridiculous.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Cubacub left the fashion department, choosing instead to take classes in fibers and performance art, where professors were less critical of queercrip design. Rebirth launched in November 2014, six months before Cubacub\u2019s graduation from SAIC.<\/p>\n<p>Unsurprisingly, Cubacub is not interested in showcasing the line in traditional fashion shows, choosing instead to organize \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/vimeo.com\/136226544\" target=\"_blank\">performances<\/a>\u201d where models of all races, genders, sizes and abilities dance in Rebirth clothing. Performances are typically held in spaces designated for queer dialogue and empowerment.<\/p>\n<div class=\"quoteright\">&#8220;They\u2019re constantly telling you, \u2018This is how the fashion world is and you can\u2019t change it.&#8217; It\u2019s all very ridiculous.\u201d &#8211; Sky Cubacub<\/div>\n<p>The world beyond Chicago has begun to take notice of Rebirth. New York-based trans South Asian performance art duo DarkMatter has <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/BB1ls6Oulqg\/?taken-by=darkmatterpoetry\" target=\"_blank\">showcased<\/a> Cubacub\u2019s <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/BB1euCEOlhv\/?taken-by=darkmatterpoetry\" target=\"_blank\">garments<\/a>, and Cubacub will be showing Rebirth pieces at largely queer venues in Mexico, Italy, Armenia and Germany this summer.<\/p>\n<p>As if this isn\u2019t enough, Cubacub has a number of Chicago-based projects lined up as well: making free chest binders for residents of the Broadway Youth Center, starting an online magazine for queercrip teens and designing Rebirth Warriors, a children\u2019s version of the clothing line.<\/p>\n<p>When asked about plans for Rebirth Garments, Cubacub doesn\u2019t miss a beat:<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI\u2019m planning on doing this collection for the rest of my life.\u201d<\/p>\n<div class=\"featurecaption\">Photo at top: Cubacub sews a chest binder for a client. (Rebekah Frumkin\/MEDILL)<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Rebekah Frumkin Sky Cubacub, who uses the personal pronoun \u201cthey,\u201d runs excitedly around this Lakeview studio, retrieving various chainmaille garments in the process. The bounty includes a chainmaille vest, a halter dress and bands of \u201cmetamaille,\u201d or chainmaille that has itself been woven into a chainmaille pattern. \u201cI\u2019m super drawn to chainmaille because of [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":234,"featured_media":31921,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[194,28,675,585],"tags":[1675,1479,649,1676,1657,598,1662,997,1659,1677,1661,1658,1660,1001],"class_list":["post-31915","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arts-culture","category-general-interest","category-social-justice","category-winter-2016","tag-art-institute","tag-arts-in-chicago","tag-chicago-fashion","tag-cisgender","tag-design","tag-disability","tag-disability-pride","tag-fashion-news","tag-genderqueer","tag-heterosexual","tag-nonbinary","tag-queer","tag-queercrip","tag-saic"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Artist aims for radical visibility with new clothing line for queer people with disabilities - Medill Reports Chicago<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/artist-aims-for-radical-visibility-with-new-clothing-line-for-queer-people-with-disabilities\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Artist aims for radical visibility with new clothing line for queer people with disabilities - Medill Reports Chicago\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Rebekah Frumkin Sky Cubacub, who uses the personal pronoun \u201cthey,\u201d runs excitedly around this Lakeview studio, retrieving various chainmaille garments in the process. The bounty includes a chainmaille vest, a halter dress and bands of \u201cmetamaille,\u201d or chainmaille that has itself been woven into a chainmaille pattern. \u201cI\u2019m super drawn to chainmaille because of [&hellip;]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/artist-aims-for-radical-visibility-with-new-clothing-line-for-queer-people-with-disabilities\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Medill Reports Chicago\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2016-02-24T17:25:52+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2016-02-25T15:48:29+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2016\/02\/Sew.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1100\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"732\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"rebekahfrumkin\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"rebekahfrumkin\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/artist-aims-for-radical-visibility-with-new-clothing-line-for-queer-people-with-disabilities\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/artist-aims-for-radical-visibility-with-new-clothing-line-for-queer-people-with-disabilities\/\",\"name\":\"Artist aims for radical visibility with new clothing line for queer people with disabilities - 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