{"id":83381,"date":"2019-12-12T16:58:47","date_gmt":"2019-12-12T22:58:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/?p=83381"},"modified":"2019-12-12T16:58:47","modified_gmt":"2019-12-12T22:58:47","slug":"the-evolving-not-disappearing-presence-of-ethnic-cuisine-in-chicago","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/the-evolving-not-disappearing-presence-of-ethnic-cuisine-in-chicago\/","title":{"rendered":"The evolving, not disappearing, presence of ethnic cuisine in Chicago"},"content":{"rendered":"

By Annie Lin<\/strong>
\nMedill Reports<\/em><\/p>\n

\u201cWhat is authentic?\u201d Rooh\u2019s executive chef Sujan Sakar remarked. \u201cNothing is authentic.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cI am having a hard time with the definition of authentic anyhow,\u201d said longtime Chicago Tribune restaurant critic Phil Vettel. He thinks that it is going to be impossible to find authentic or traditional restaurants.<\/p>\n

In recent years, the $30.1 billion restaurant industry in Illinois has seen an emergence of restaurants marketed as contemporary, modern, fusion, and globally inspired. This raises the question of whether these new restaurants are replacing traditional, family-run ethnic restaurants.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

For 22-year-old Indian restaurant Sabri Nihari on Devon Avenue, also known as Chicago\u2019s Little India, \u201cmost of the customers that come here, they prefer to keep it traditional,\u201d said restaurant manager Safdar Khan.<\/p>\n

\u201cI know other places are blending and adding new things,\u201d he commented. \u201cWhich is good. It is something new, and it really caters to a different set of customers.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cThe patrons are much more sophisticated than they were when I started out, we have gotten a lot more diverse,\u201d Vettel remarked about people\u2019s changing tastes from 30 years ago to now.<\/p>\n

\u201cI think that a chef can only be as experimental as his clientele allows him to be,\u201d Vettel explained. \u201cOne of the things chefs like about Chicago is that the dining public is open to new things.\u201d<\/p>\n

For Rooh, that is what chef Sakar anticipated. \u201cYou have a diverse culture here, I think Chicago has a very good balance,\u201d he said. \u201c[The customers] are getting something they\u2019ve never expected.\u201d<\/p>\n

Sakar\u2019s \u201cprogressive Indian cuisine\u201d consists of ingredients such as fresh truffle, Bengal mustard cream, avocado raita and uni mali curry.<\/p>\n

\u201cI use Indian flavors which are traditional, paired with local ingredients\u201d to upgrade dishes without altering its inherent flavors, Sakar explained.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe are thinking ahead. Everything is changing,\u201d he continued. \u201cWe have to keep up with that without losing the flavors or losing what we are cuisine wise.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cI am cooking Indian food in America. I am not cooking Americanized Indian food,\u201d Sakar asserted.<\/p>\n

There is a debate surrounding what is currently being accepted as American food, compared to what is being categorized as ethnic food.<\/p>\n

The U.S. Census Bureau does not define \u201cethnic\u201d cuisine. However, they categorize \u201cfood services\u201d using labels including \u201cWhite, African American, American Indian, Asian, Asian Indian, Chinese, Filipino, Japanese, Korean and other Asian.\u201d This includes European cuisines under the category \u201cwhite.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cMost Americans, until recently, considered Italian food to be in some ways different than typical American food,\u201d said Professor Krishnendu Ray, department chair of nutrition and food studies at New York University.<\/p>\n

Not many people make that differentiation anymore in cities like Chicago and New York, Ray said.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt is inversely related to the end of immigration of poor people from that country,\u201d he commented on the rise of a nation\u2019s cuisine in terms of global prestige.<\/p>\n

\u201cSome cuisines have higher prestige than others, an example of that is Italian food which has a lot of prestige. In some ways, Mexican food does not,\u201d he stated. \u201cI don\u2019t think Italian food could have become as prestigious as it has today if poor, working-class Italians continued to come in today.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cMy argument is that it\u2019s a matrix of population, prestige, racial and ethnic difference, and how a population does over time with upward mobility,\u201d Ray called this a hierarchy of taste.<\/p>\n

He argued, \u201ccultural prestige follows power of capital.\u201d If the Chinese economy continues to grow at the rate at which it is going, we are going to see the end of Chinese migration of poor working-class people and more Chinese expats at the upper end of the social hierarchy. That is going to flip the idea of Chinese cuisine as an upper-class cuisine, Ray said.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Handmade dumplings at Qing Xiang Yuan Dumplings. (Annie Lin\/MEDILL)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For Chinese restaurant Qing Xiang Yuan Dumplings, Samantha Man\u2019s father decided to open a dumpling restaurant when he struggled to find authentic northern Chinese food.<\/p>\n

He started the restaurant in 2014, and he still wakes up every morning to handmake the dumpling fillings from their secret family recipe, Man said in Mandarin.<\/p>\n

At Taste of Szechuan in Chinatown, restaurant manager Bao Lin explained they want to preserve traditional Chinese flavors. \u201cOur chefs are all from Szechuan province. We wanted to bring Szechuan cuisine to the U.S., and we want to stay true to ourselves,\u201d Bao said in Mandarin.<\/p>\n

According to the U.S. Census Bureau (2012), the most popular categories of non-American food in Cook County are Chinese (1,132) and Asian Indian (718). However, it does not offer greater specificity.<\/p>\n

Ray conducted his own studies utilizing data from the restaurant app, Yelp. To analyze the disparity in prestige and price-point of a cuisine, Ray filtered restaurants by cuisine and price range \u201cas a surrogate for prestige.\u201d<\/p>\n

He found that the cuisines most highly ranked in the expensive or prestigious range were American (14%), Southern (11%), and French (9%). Whereas, the lower-ranked cuisines were Arabic (1%), Greek (2%), Meditteranean (2%), Vietnamese (2%), Indian (2%), Chinese (3%) and Mexican (3%).<\/p>\n

For Jagdish Khatwani, owner of Indian restaurants Tiffin and Udupi Palace, he has been in the restaurant business for 25 years, but he does not see newer restaurants as competition.<\/p>\n

\u201cAll the markets are different. [Our restaurant] is going to stay the way it is now. Sometimes there are ups and downs in the business,\u201d he expressed matter-of-factly.<\/p>\n

\u201cPeople get tired of eating the same thing, they want something new, something creative,\u201d Khatwani said.<\/p>\n

That creativity can be seen through chef Sakar\u2019s cooking at Rooh. \u201cEveryone is using influences. There are not many boundaries anymore,\u201d Sakar implied.<\/p>\n

Ray also reflected on the fluidity of influence and change, saying, \u201cthere is not much we can do about it other than observe, analyze and reflect on it.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWe cannot prescribe cultural change, because the cost of prescribing cultural change is much more invasive than it is worth the trouble,\u201d Ray said.<\/p>\n

Photo at top: Qing Xiang Yuan Dumplings in Chinatown. (Annie Lin\/MEDILL)<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

By Annie Lin Medill Reports \u201cWhat is authentic?\u201d Rooh\u2019s executive chef Sujan Sakar remarked. \u201cNothing is authentic.\u201d \u201cI am having a hard time with the definition of authentic anyhow,\u201d said longtime Chicago Tribune restaurant critic Phil Vettel. He thinks that it is going to be impossible to find authentic or traditional restaurants. In recent years, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":599,"featured_media":83386,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[194,4780],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-83381","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arts-culture","category-fall-2019"],"yoast_head":"\nThe evolving, not disappearing, presence of ethnic cuisine in Chicago - Medill Reports Chicago<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/news.medill.northwestern.edu\/chicago\/the-evolving-not-disappearing-presence-of-ethnic-cuisine-in-chicago\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The evolving, not disappearing, presence of ethnic cuisine in Chicago - Medill Reports Chicago\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Annie Lin Medill Reports \u201cWhat is authentic?\u201d Rooh\u2019s executive chef Sujan Sakar remarked. \u201cNothing is authentic.\u201d \u201cI am having a hard time with the definition of authentic anyhow,\u201d said longtime Chicago Tribune restaurant critic Phil Vettel. 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